Pramiti Goenka’s quest for exquisite gemstones began when she was
smitten by a lush Colombian emerald at the age of 10 and since then there
has been no looking back for this jeweller says Vijetha Rangabashyam
Born in a family that has been into
gemstone manufacturing, the art of
jewellery making is in Pramiti’s DNA.
Her penchant for fine and exquisite colour
stones gave birth to her brand Athvya where
old and the new are seamlessly married.
Tell us a bit about yourself – where
does your passion for jewellery stem
I come from a family that has its roots in
jewellery and colour stone manufacturing
in Jaipur. My interest in jewellery has been
there since childhood - it started with being
surrounded by gemstones and growing up
travelling to international trade fairs and
having jewellery related discussions at meal
times! In my stint at GIA (New York), I
learnt a lot about gemstones; not just about
emeralds, rubies and sapphires but also the
more unusual variety like Benitoite and
Alexandrite. I also was privy to the different
techniques that are being used in the industry.
I would say that it was a holistic experience –
both inside and outside of the classroom.
I knew I was always going to be a jeweller.
I have been fortunate to have a strong
foundation and the support of my family that
has guided me in this direction but my drive
for jewellery designing comes from a calling
that is beyond my understanding. It just
Athvlya is a relatively a nascent
brand – why the decision of plunging
into the world of jewellery design?
The beauty of colour gemstones shines
through only when they are set in jewellery
pieces. A stone by itself is a chapter in a good
book but when set in a jewellery piece it tells
the complete story! I would like to tell the
story of a stone- where is comes from, how
it is set, what complements it, and most of
all- what memory is associated with it! Each
Athvlya piece tells its own story!
How would you characterize your
Simplicity combined with elegance. Athvlya
is all about the confluence of classicism and
modernism. It is a blend of the Sanskrit
word ‘athulya’ meaning incomparable and Latin alphabets. It represents the integration
of Indian heirloom concepts with modern
jewellery designing and finish.
Can you tell us about your latest
My latest collection - “AMMV” (pronounced
as ‘ammu’) celebrates motherhood! My little
son calls me ammu when he is happy. This
collection is inspired from my journey as
a mother. I just didn’t realize how difficult
it is for a new mother to wear jewellery –
especially when your baby tries to yank your
necklace or earrings! The collection mainly
comprises of studs or ear tops with less metal.
They are light weight, have a stronger omega
back and are designed so that they can be
worn at home or out for lunch or dinner! As
a mother, one doesn’t have to keep changing
her earrings or worry that they may be
What is the most challenging bit
about designing jewellery?
Each Athvlya piece is carefully designed using
natural gemstones either in 18kt gold or in
925 sterling silver. The stones are bought from
various trusted vendors through international
trade fairs and the manufacturing takes place
in Jaipur. When I first started Athvlya, my
dad would give me a box of stones and ask
me to design a piece of jewellery - initially I Nature. My last collection ‘JOKVLL’ meaning
glacier was inspired from my trip to Iceland!
Define the style sensibility of your audience.
My pieces are born out of a concept- a
classic design but with a distinct touch of
modernism, while being affordable. An
Athvlya wearer is someone who appreciates
all those three qualities in a jewellery piece.
A woman who is classic at heart and playful
with her style- she is contemporary and
What gemstones do you love working
with and why?
I love working with all coloured stones! But
if I had to choose it would be Colombian
emeralds! I saw my first Colombian emerald
when I was about 10 years old - I think.
It was at Joseph Gad Emeralds at Basel- they
had their booth across my family’s booth.
All day I would go and look and marvel at
the colours. I remember them being nice to
me and showing me some of the important
stones from their collection. I guess that did
it for me. It was love at first sight and I still
want to collect them and work with them.
A rich Colombian emerald gives you the
feeling of looking at a field of fresh green
grass on a warm spring day!
How do you find the balance between
satiating your own creative desire
whilst giving clients what they want
Athvlya designs are created with a sense of
wearability. The pieces are designed such that they can be worn with Indian and
Western outfits. I personally feel that an
Indian woman wants her traditional jewellery
but also desires jewellery that is unique, that
stands out and complements her personality.
My designing desire is fulfilled by my passion
to create jewellery that is classic, unique, lively
How important do you think it is for
a jewellery designer to be abreast of
It is very important! Every industry is
changing and evolving and one must
definitely keep up with the trends to stay
updated. They let us know what is relevant to
us and which direction we are going towards.
I recently heard about MIRRAR - it allows
the wearer to see themselves in different
jewellery pieces without physically trying
them on using Augmented Reality. I think
that is pretty amazing! It makes me realise
how technological changes are influencing
the industry in the coming times.
What are some of the up and coming
trends in jewellery?
Young women are increasingly inclined
towards buying fine jewellery – they want
to know more about investment stones or
pieces. They want to wear jewellery that is
crafted in Colombian emeralds, Burmese
rubies, Ceylon sapphires and fancy diamonds.
Art Deco designs are also in demand.
In terms of pieces, stackable rings, hoop
earrings, eternity rings and statement cuffs/
bracelets are very popular at the moment.
In your experience of travelling,
which country do you find most
inspiring for your line of work and
Traveling is my main source of inspiration!
The most inspiring city for me has been
Basel -rather the Basel Watch and Jewellery
Fair- I look forward to it every year! It is
inspiring because of the exposure to well
known international jewellery brands as
well as relatively newer brands. I get to stay
updated with trends, get an opportunity to
meet young and new designers and interact
with designers who are buying stones and
jewellery for their brands. It is truly an
inspiration to learn from fellow women -
experienced and new - about their stories
and their passion.
What would your advice be to an
aspiring jewellery designer who
wants to make it in the luxury
fashion jewellery space?
Follow your instinct, create from within and
believe in yourself- don’t give into creating a
luxury brand overnight; take it one step at a
time. Have a true foundation and never
give up on your dreams.
What is your prized
possession when it comes
A Colombian emerald necklace
gifted to me by my husband on
our first anniversary.