Discussions across the show floor at IIJS Bharat Signature 2026 point to a noticeable shift in how couture jewellery is being approached by designers and manufacturers. A recurring theme is the emphasis on wearability, particularly as brands prepare collections for the spring–summer season. Even within couture, there is growing recognition that statement jewellery must be practical enough for repeat use.

Abhishek Raniwala of Royal Rising Jewels by Raniwala Jewellers noted that seasonal relevance is playing a larger role in design decisions. “These are spring–summer collections, and these are the pieces that are going to be a trend in the upcoming summer,” he said, adding that the focus is on jewellery that is “lightweight and functional”.  The sentiment reflects a broader market understanding that comfort and usability are no longer optional, even in high-end gemstone-led pieces.

Standing Out in a Crowded Retail Environment

As wearability becomes a baseline expectation, the conversation naturally moves towards differentiation — another dominant theme at IIJS Bharat Signature 2026. With retailers operating in an increasingly competitive environment, designers are under pressure to offer jewellery that immediately captures attention at the counter.

Aashay Sanghvi of Studio 65 by KP Sanghvi explains that the need to stand out has become central to the brand’s couture strategy. “Retailers today have customers coming in who have access to a lot of information and exposure. They want to see something different, something new, and something that truly stands out,” he said. According to Sanghvi, the role of couture jewellery is not just aesthetic, but strategic, helping retailers differentiate themselves in a crowded marketplace.

Reinventing Timeless Forms with a Modern Lens

To achieve this differentiation, many designers at the show are not abandoning traditional jewellery formats, but reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens. This approach allows brands to retain familiarity, while introducing visible innovation.

Sanghvi elaborates on this design philosophy, noting that classic silhouettes remain an important foundation. “We take timeless designs — whether it is traditional jhumkas or large statement studs — and build them around a theme or collection, adding a modern twist in a way people may not have seen before,” he said. While the essence of the design remains timeless, the execution introduces newness, ensuring that each collection feels fresh without straying too far from established forms.

Gender-Fluid Statement Jewellery Gains Momentum

Another trend gaining momentum at IIJS Bharat Signature 2026 is the rise of gender-fluid statement jewellery, particularly within gemstone-led couture. Designers are increasingly creating pieces that are not defined by gender, but by visual impact and versatility.

Nishish Lotia of Neetti Ateliier highlighted the commercial appeal of such designs. “These kinds of statement pieces move really fast,” he said, adding that they can be worn multiple times, and are aesthetically beautiful on their own. According to Lotia, the absence of dependency on complementary jewellery makes these pieces easier for consumers to adopt, and for retailers to sell.

Craftsmanship and Stone Quality Remain Non-Negotiable

While design direction and market positioning continue to evolve, craftsmanship remains a non-negotiable pillar of couture jewellery at the show. Conversations repeatedly return to the importance of gemstone quality, particularly colour, lustre and surface detailing.

Abhishek Ghatiwala of Ghatiwala Jewellers, Jaipur, underscored this focus through the brand’s work with coloured stones. Speaking about gemstone-led designs, he pointed to the significance of selecting stones with the right visual character. “It is about the right colour and the right lustre,” he said, noting that traditional techniques such as Mughal carving are being reimagined in modern settings to create a seamless blend of heritage and contemporary aesthetics.

A Clear Direction for Gemstone Couture

Taken together, the insights emerging from IIJS Bharat Signature 2026 suggest that gemstone-led couture is moving towards a more balanced and market-aware phase. Designers are aligning creativity with wearability, innovation with familiarity, and craftsmanship with commercial relevance. For retailers and manufacturers, the direction is clear: couture jewellery anchored in strong gemstones, thoughtful design and clear differentiation is set to define the next phase of the category.